Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Paddling the Everglades Part 2: Marine charts and tides


Addendum: since writing this 2 years ago, I have been using a GPS, but I still carry the waterproof chart and compass.

You’ve started to plan the logistics of your Everglades kayak or canoe trip, you’ve already decided on the dates and number of days you will be paddling, and you are now ready to map out a paddling route. By now, you should have researched the Everglades National Park’s website (http://www.nps.gov/ever). As I mentioned in my previous entry, reading Johnny Molloy’s book, A Paddler’s Guide to the Everglades National Park is a good idea at this point, essential if you are planning anything beyond a couple days of paddling.

You may have decided on a route based on the Wilderness Trip Planner brochure from the ENP website. This shows you the approximate distances between campsites, but it does not give you any other information that is important to know when planning a route. This is where you need a marine chart. Irrespetive of a GPS, I recommend you get a waterproof chart. There are waterproof charts available from the following website, http://waterproofcharts.com/florida.html. You’ll find two area maps that apply to the ENP: #41 Everglades and Ten Thousand Islands, and #39 Lostmans River to Whitewater Bay and Flamingo. The #41 chart includes the entire Ten Thousand Islands area as far south as the Lostmans River. #39 includes Lostmans River and the southern end of the park including Flamingo and northern Florida Bay area. The cost is $25 for each map, not expensive considering their importance. One word of caution, neither map includes the short route off the wilderness waterway into the campsites Willy Willy or Sunday Bay, but you can get those supplemental maps when you purchase your permits at the visitor center.

The marine chart provides you the locations of shoals, nice to know when paddling or getting on or off an island at low tide (if you use a GPS, make sure it has up-to-date mapping software). The last thing you want to happen is to run your boat over a sharp bed of oyster shells in the Ten Thousand Islands or to find yourself in the middle of a very large mudflat in Florida Bay. These can be easily avoided if you know where the shoals to avoid exist.

You may think a chart is unnecessary if you are planning to paddle only on The Wilderness Waterway, a marked 99-mile water route that runs through the entire ENP. But two adjacent markers can be as much as a mile apart. If you don’t know where to look for the next marker, you may find yourself severely off course. Having a chart that shows you the marker locations will help you avoid losing your route.

Once you have your marine chart, you can visualize your route. One of the most important factors to consider when you plan your route is the tide schedule. To make your trip as pleasurable as possible, plan your routes to avoid paddling a river against the tide. Most of the water you will be paddling is tide-influenced. The greatest effect will occur on those rivers that connect the backcountry with the gulf, such as the Lopez, Lostmans, and Shark rivers. To get your tide information, go to the saltwater tides website: http://saltwatertides.com and search under the list of Florida Gulf Coast sites. For Flamingo, look under the list of Florida Keys sites.

You can choose to ignore the tides, but if, for instance, you find yourself paddling from Highland Beach on the Lostmans River during a full or new moon outgoing tide, you’re going to curse your decision to come here the entire way. This can be easily avoided by simply knowing the tide schedule for the entrance of the Lostmans River. For instance, say the low tide on the day you want to head up the river is at 7:05 am and the high tide is at 12:31 pm; this tells you that you would have a much nicer paddle if you head up the river before 12:31 pm. The closer the time is to the low or high, the less tidal effect there is; this is called “slack tide”. In this case, you have some window of opportunity for about 1 hour after the high tide before the outgoing tide becomes strong. Another tidal factor is the percent visibility of the moon. If you have a full or new moon, the change in water height is much more dramatic and the current is much stronger; thus, at least avoid paddling against a full or new moon tide.

With tide schedule and marine chart in hand, you can now plan an extraordinary trip into the Everglades. If you are acquiring your permit the first day of your paddle, account for the amount of time you’ll need that day before you can get on the water. Plan your first day’s route accordingly, especially important if you will not get on the water until noon or later.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: Although the marine chart is waterproof, I keep it in a waterproof map case, which you can purchase at this website: http://www.thecompassstore.com/mapcase.html. I do this for several reasons; it helps maintain the longevity of the map, I write on my maps, I carry a compass and pencil in case I need to make compass bearings on the fly, and I have my tide schedule print-outs inside the case. Along with my compass I keep in front of me on my boat, everything I need to navigate through the ENP is in that case which sits in front of me the entire time, attached to the spray skirt or the boat. I refer to it frequently while paddling in order to orient myself with my surroundings. In the horizon, 3 mangrove islands can look like one big land mass and distinguishing features to use as orientation points are difficult to find. Thus, you must be comfortable with using maps and a compass while paddling through the Everglades.

Next blog; Part 3: more about the tides (don’t ignore them!) and some info on the campsites.

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Paddling the Everglades Part 1: Getting oriented with the park


Everglades National Park is the largest subtropical wilderness in the United States. I suppose the attraction to the Everglades for many northerners is the climate and warm temperatures during the winter months. Whatever the attraction is, your paddling vacation in the Everglades can be an incredibly wonderful and pain-free or it can be completely miserable. The difference is how well you plan your trip, as well as your tolerance level for certain inconveniences and annoyances).

Planning your trip begins here: research the Everglades National Park’s website (http://www.nps.gov/ever). Starting with ‘Directions’, you’ll find that the park has 4 visitor centers. While all four are worth a visit, only two of these provide you camping permits, Flamingo and Gulf Coast visitor centers. Now, click on 'view map' and find those visitor centers. Flamingo (on the southern end of the park) is your gateway to Florida Bay, Whitewater Bay and Hells Bay, and the beginning or end point of the wilderness waterway. On the northern end is the Gulf Coast visitor center in Everglades City, your entrance to the Ten Thousand Islands and the beginning or end point of the wilderness waterway.

Your planned paddling route, rental needs, and shuttle needs will dictate which of these two visitor centers will be your camping permit venue. If you are planning a one-way trip, it may be useful to know that Flamingo has a campground near its visitor center. While there are hotels in Everglades City, there is no tent camping. However, there are nearby campgrounds, Seminole-Collier State Park and Chokoloskee Island Park.

To get to Flamingo, you must pay to come into the park, $10 per car and $3 per boat. There is no entrance fee to the Gulf Coast visitor center in Everglades City. I believe it is $16 to camp at the Flamingo campground. Your backcountry permits will cost $10 plus $2 per person ($1 for seniors) per night (14 days maximum). Permitting only takes place from mid-November to the end of April.

From the website, you can download maps and brochures (http://www.nps.gov/ever/planyourvisit/maps.htm). Two of them are very important
  • The Everglades National Park map is useful for planning the beginning and end of your trip and helping you decide on where you want to begin and end your trip.
  • The Wilderness Trip Planner is also a useful brochure. The brochure contains a list of all the backcountry campsites and a map to orient you to the campsite locations and distances. DO NOT USE THIS MAP for navigating! You’ll need a marine map for that (more on that later). From this brochure, you can at least get an idea on distances so you can begin planning your route. But it isn’t until you study a marine chart that you will begin to get a full understanding of the trip you are about to take.

It would also be a good idea to begin learning more about the Everglades and the ecosystem that you will be visiting. Do some research on typical weather patterns (temperatures, wind velocities and directions) for the time of year you intend to visit. If you intend to fish, you will need to read up on fishing regulations and get your Florida saltwater fishing permit. The best money you can spend when planning your trip is Johnny Molloy’s book: A Paddler’s Guide to the Everglades National Park. He has a new edition includes areas north of the national park in the 10,000 Islands Wildlife Preserve. This book is essential to good planning and regardless, it’s a great read. He includes much information on the history of the area and invaluable insider information on campsites and paddling routes.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: at this stage in your planning, you are perusing the ENP website, but there are some things you cannot glean from the website where a little local knowledge may be beneficial.

Depending on when you are planning to come here, acquiring a backcountry camping permit can be very difficult. The busiest times are around the holidays, weekends and in March (spring break). You must purchase your permit in person at either Flamingo or Gulf Coast visitor centers and it is first-come-first-serve. The earliest you can purchase your permit is 24 hrs prior to your trip. Several parties can be vying for backcountry permits at the same time. At the busiest times, you will find people camped out on the doorsteps of the visitor center waiting for the doors to open at 8 am. So here is an important tip, have a contingency plan in case you do not get the campsite you want. Arrive at the visitor center well before 8 am and get in line. Welcome to sunny Florida!

Next blog; Part 2: acquiring a marine map, the tides and planning your route.

For more information, go to my website: http://www.cmierphotoandfitness.net